Sunday, February 18, 2018

ELEUTHERA - ISLAND OF FRIENDLY PEOPLE



Ahhhhh, Eleuthera.  An island paradise free from the hustle and bustle of tourists and cruise ships.  Eleuthera means freedom, and for me that means freedom to relax and unwind.  One of the Bahamian out islands, it ain't easy to get to from North Myrtle Beach, SC.  

The island is 110 miles long and consists of 200 square miles.  With the pink sand beaches of the Atlantic on one side and the crystal blue water of the Caribbean on the other side most rides down the one main road will have beautiful views of both.  It's narrow and the main road is full of potholes.  A car, preferably 4 wheel drive, is a must.  You won't see golf carts full of tourists anywhere.  Most of the vacation rentals and secondhttps://www.caribjournal.com/2019/10/23/eleuthera-bahamas-destination/?utm_source=Caribbean+Journal&utm_campaign=ceb03e6db9-CJ_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_ea4e1e4090-ceb03e6db9-189788201another house in sight.  Don't worry...Be happy...Eleuthera is a VERY safe and friendly island.


There are three airports, but don't think for one minute that this means it's a metropolis.  Located one on each end and one in the middle your arrival will 90% of the time be by puddle jumper from Nassau.  The airports are rural and the landing brakes on the runway will give you whiplash if you're not prepared.






Once you arrive in Nassau you're on "island time".  Only a 20 minute flight, your puddle jumper to Eleuthera might be on time or as much as an hour late...so plan a decent layover in Nassau, have a pina colada or two and relax.  Your plane to Paradise will arrive shortly...or not.  No need to get your panties in a ruffle...You're here to chill.  Start getting in chill mode when you see the good 'ol USA fade away out the plane window.

One of my favorite tips would be to get a window seat on your plane.  You'll know you're getting close to Paradise when folks start leaning towards the windows to see the beautiful blue waters and scattered islands below.  Inhale...Exhale...and RELAX...You're almost there to escape the hustle and bustle of work and the city.


Before you can sit back and enjoy the island you'll have to pick up your rental car (don't forget to drive on the left!) and find a grocery store to stock up.  Most of the folks you rent from will refer you to someone who rents cars.  There is NO AVIS OR HERTZ on the island. You'll probably arrive on a Saturday and most of the grocery stores are either closed on Sunday or have very limited hours.  The locals like their island time, too!  Prepare before you come and get familiar with the area of Eleuthera where you'll be staying.  My first trip, many years ago, we stayed on a small cay between Eleuthera and Harbour Island. We were directed to the Pigly Wigly for grocery shopping.  Didn't know if it was just misspelled or trying to lure you in thinking it was a Piggly Wiggly.  Sounded like it would be a nice place. Wrong. Dirt floors, no windows or doors, with dogs and chickens running around.  I found out quickly that fresh meat was shipped in on Thursdays and gone by Friday.  We got there on a Saturday.  Happy to say that time has improved the shopping experience, but don't get excited.  You'll go back in time to the old country store days.  Fresh meat and supplies are now shipped in on Tuesdays...and there are more grocery stores so they don't sell out quickly.   Don't be rude or pass out when you see the prices and selection!  Most of the locals eat their catch of the day and what comes out of their gardens.  You won't see a lot of name brands and what you do see will be in the smaller packaging.  Hold on to your hats...This last trip a jar of Jif Peanut Butter was $14.75.  I took my jar with me in my luggage.  You learn to take anything you can't do without or will go into vapors at the prices.


Now, it's time to find your house or villa.  Get those bags unpacked and get out on your back deck...Or better yet, grab you a chair and get down by the water.  Catch your first magical sunset.  The sunrises and sunsets on the island are FABulous! I would suggest that you have something light picked up from the grocery store and after the sunset hit the sack.  You're gonna want tomorrow to come quickly!


What to do?  Not much of nuttin'.  That's what makes Eleuthera great for me.  There are very few road signs, most of the roads off of Queens Highway (the main road) are dirt and rough.  Breakfast at DaPerk at the harbour..Mmmmm, good.  I could eat there every morning.  Not a fancy place, but delicious gourmet coffee, baked goods, breakfast sandwiches and egg dishes.  Be sure to sit outside and enjoy watching the locals get their day started. DaPerk is easy to miss, as are most of the hot spots on the island.

During the week you may want to cook at home.  I don't. I go to Eleuthera to experience the local flavor(s)...especially food.  However...Thank goodness we're not all alike.  For fresh catch of the day or lobster tails to cook at home (most of the rentals will have a grill) you can go down to the harbour most afternoons around 3 and purchase from the locals as they bring their day's bounty in.  Sometimes you'll see a local on the side of the road with their catch. Don't worry, it's FRESH, and don't worry when you don't see it on ice.  It will all be sold or taken home for supper in no time.  If you talk real sweet they'll even dress it for 'ya.


 Days spent snorkeling, diving, fishing, walking the beautiful beaches..or just sittin' on your butt and watching the dolphins and rays in the crystal clear water.  My kinda Paradise.

Early afternoons search out one of the local juke joint dives for drinks, music, views and good local food.  My favorites are The Deck, LeoRose Bar & Grill and Tippy's.  Tippy's is kinda froo-froo...So I stick with the first two as much as possible.  Just throw a cover-up or shirt on over your bathing suit and ask one of the locals where to find 'em.  Don't be surprised if you are the only one there on arrival. There aren't many tourists on Eleuthera and the locals and ex-pat residents who have chosen this island for their retirement are very good at island time.  They'll eventually show up.  Do you really need a crowd to enjoy yourself?  Not me!




If you want to take a day excursion, jump on the water taxi and shoot over to Harbour Island.  A short 15 minute boat ride this small island is jam packed with history.  Known as "Briland" by it's inhabitants the island is rich in history and property owners.  You'll want to rent a golf cart at it's harbour when you arrive in order to see the whole island.  That won't be hard as it's only 3 1/2 miles long and 1/2 mile wide.  Harbourside is filled with quaint shops and local bars and restaurants.  Oceanside is the pink sand beach that Harbour Island is famous for.  Dunmore Town is the only "town" on the island and is filled with quaint cottages that have survived the elements, built in the 17 and 1800's.  Don't get excited about buying one unless you have a cool million in your pocket.  No paparazzi allowed..... no telling who you might recognize on the island.  This is the playground of the rich and famous...This is where many come to RELAX and escape the harrassment of everyday life in the real world.   You'll see HUGE yachts and sea planes dropping off or picking up visitors or some of the elite homeowners.  For a day trip I recommend starting off at the harbour for a cool drink and lunch of fresh conch salad or another local dish.  Browse the shops and then take off to expore the island.  A stop for drinks at Romora Bay and Valentine's is a must.  Loosen up your purse strings and enjoy.  For island flavor, ask someone to direct you to Tingum Village.  Ma Ruby's cheeseburgers  are responsible for Jimmy Buffett's "Cheeseburger In Paradise".  Don't miss the beautiful beach and ambience at Pink Sands Resort for drinks and if you stay later it's a great place for dinner.

Before you decide where to stop and eat or have a cocktail ride around the island to pick your favorite.  Small island, but many choices from casual to high end.

Here's a quick tour of Harbour Island.



I've stayed on Harbour Island many times, but in the end the island of Eleuthera is where my heart is.  A day trip to Harbour Island is enough for me.

Cruises?  All inclusive resort vacations?  Been there, done that.  Wanna just relax and meet some new folks?  Hop a plane and put your tired butt in the sand on an island.

Ahhhhh...Eleuthera!


It don't get no betta than this!  Just relax!

It makes me wanna dance!


Miss BayBay and Mr. Brady had to stay home...but they sure did dance when Mom got home!



Thanks for droppin' in...while you're here, won't you leave a comment?